Starting Out and Moving On in Soapmaking

Hot Process Swirl with natural colorants

This post is a work in progress.  I've got this note on my Facebook page and have been pushed (Liz) to make it into a more readily available blog post.  I will say there are lots of links here to Facebook groups and pages.  As I figure it out I'll fix it up with better links.  Facebook is really a neat place to find lots of different information from various soap groups, but of course there's the whole internet that's pretty useful also!

I am no expert by any means.  I first saw a soapmaking demo at the Massachusetts Beekeepers Association Field Day in early 2013.  I was fascinated by the whole process as demonstrated by fellow beek Tony Lulek.  I went to a soap making class at Molly's Apothecary, taught by Ann Fisher,  back in October of 2013 and really was amazed at how much fun making soap actually is.  We learned cold process style soap making.  I highly recommend finding a soaping mentor like Ann to begin your soapmaking adventures with.

I have now explored hot process, but there are various hybrids of the two, and then melt and pour.  I am going to keep adding to this note as I go along and find other neat things that are good for a beginner to know.  Links, etc.

General Info:

A good place to start is the Soaping101's Youtube channel http://www.youtube.com/user/soaping101 Cathy McGinness has assembled lots of awesome video tutorials about so many different things.  I could spend hours going through the videos.

Then there's Soaping101 Study Hall https://www.facebook.com/groups/soaping101 that's a group on Facebook that's a great place to start learning full of very helpful people that answer all manner of questions.

I would be totally remiss if I left out Bramble Berry, a fantastic vendor who also has a really well done series of beginner videos that is a must see.  She calls herself the Soap Queen, and this link will take you right to her beginner soapmaking series, but she's got lots of other good videos also. http://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLAADF6209996265D2

Alicia Grosso has written The Everything Soapmaking book, linked below, she's got a great resource of links and information worth going through here http://www.netplaces.com/soapmaking/ 

Using SoapCalc:  By far to me the best lye calculator out there is SoapCalc.  It takes a bit to 'get' how to use it, but here is a great tutorial on how to use it https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pS39XbWv1vo .  The worst part of learning this one for me was making certain the little button was clicked for ounces or pounds - if it's set wrong you'll pull your hair out!

There are other lye calculators out there.  Many really like the MMS version https://www.thesage.com/calcs/LyeCalc.html. Then there's the one at Bramble Berry, I never use it, but it's there http://www.brambleberry.com/pages/Lye-Calculator.aspx 

The Lye Myth:  One major issue you'll read, see on Youtube videos or just hear from some soapmakers - you should use vinegar on a lye burn.  No, you shouldn't, YOU SHOULD USE WATER!!  Vinegar will create an exothermic reaction, thus making the burn worse.  See this link for a thorough explanation.  Again, as the MSDS (Material Safety Data Sheet) says, flush for 15 minutes with cold water, then contact medical assistance.  Always follow the MSDS sheets on any chemicals you use.

Books: (these are not affiliate links, just my recommendations, and it's easier to link to Amazon than to describe them myself):

The-Soapmakers Companion by Susan Miller Cavitch

The Everything Soapmaking Book by Alicia Grosso

Essential Soapmaking by Mary Humphrey and Alyssa Middleton

When you're ready to move on, this is a must read as far as I'm concerned.    Advanced Soap Making - Removing the Mystery by Mary Humphrey And Alyssa Middleton

Soap Equipment Suppliers:  (See equipment recommendations down the page a bit)  There are so many.  I'll list them out below, the ones I've used for general soaping equipment and supplies:

Nurture Soap Supplies

Bramble Berry

Soap Making Resource

Wholesale Supplies Plus

Bulk Apothecary

Soaper's Choice

All of the above have Facebook Pages, they'll come up on a Facebook search.

Fragrances:  One of the things you'll enjoy are the various fragrances out there for soapmaking.  You can stick to the 'natural' scents of essential oils, I really enjoy them myself, or you can branch out into fragrance oils - and there are a gazillion of them.  Some of them, particularly the florals for the fragrance oils (or FOs, as they're known) and the spice essential oils (as well as the florals, except for lavender) can cause things to speed up quite a bit, so always look through reviews of the various fragrances to see what others' experiences have been.  I have ordered from the following fragrance suppliers and can recommend them.

For essential oils I like:

• New Direction Aromatics (soaping supplies also)
• Liberty Naturals

For fragrance oils I like:

•  Fragrance Laboratory
• Andree's Essential Soaps
• Tamera's Soaping Scents (this is a Facebook group you need to join to order)

The above are just a couple of suggestions - there are many suppliers out there.  Be careful.  Some of them might be cheap, that's because their fragrance oils are diluted and you'll use way more to scent your soap.  The cheap essential oils are the worst!  But then again, the expensive ones are way too expensive to use in soap.  Do not believe the marketing hype - there is no such thing as therapeutic grade essential oils.  Just stick with good suppliers and you won't go wrong.

A note regarding essential oils and fragrances oils - they have usage rates.  Understand and use them.  Be careful with essential oils in particular, they are powerful, and some have very low usage rates because they are skin irritants, sensitizers, etc.  If you have doubts, ask someone.

General Info links worth checking out!

A nice blog full of links to all sorts of soap making info put together by a fellow soaper on Facebook http://lizardladysoapinfo.blogspot.com/

Wonderful recipe tutorial with lots of good info:  http://www.lovelygreens.com/2013/11/natural-soapmaking-for-beginners-basic.html

Soapmaking math - Everyone should be able to calculate a recipe by hand.  Her is a great explanation of how to do just that:  http://artisansoaps.blogspot.co.nz/2010/05/calculating-sap-by-hand.html

Glossary of soap making terms http://bethannecreates.blogspot.com/2012/07/common-soap-making-terms-and-acronyms.html

The most thorough SAP list I've found so far http://www.herbal-howto-guide.com/SAP-value-chart.html

A nice overview of the various oils and fats we use in soap http://www.herbal-howto-guide.com/fixed-oils.html

A nice soapmaking oils chart listing the fatty acid profiles, recommended usage rates and qualities they bring to soap http://www.lovinsoap.com/oils-chart/

Yet another soapmaking oil chart listing the various qualities of soaping oils - this site also has a comprehensive lye calculator http://summerbeemeadow.com/content/properties-soapmaking-oils

How to calculate the volume of any mold http://candleandsoap.about.com/od/suppliers/tp/Calculating-The-Size-Amount-Of-Soap-To-Fill-A-Soap-Mold.htm

Here is a link to a wonderful page full of information once you've learned a bit about soap making.  Anne L. Watson has written two good books that I've read (she's written three, but I haven't read Smart Lotion Making yet), Smart Soapmaking and Milk Soapmaking.  Her website has so much information, and her Creative Soap Making page is absolutely amazing. http://annelwatson.com/soapmaking/creative/index.html

Then there's Saponifier Magazine, well worth the subscription http://saponifier.com/

This is an excellent blog to read for the first time soaper - lots of general principle information (starting out with the perennial request for recipes).  http://milesawayfarm.wordpress.com/2013/12/06/soaping-newbies-12-common-questions/

Regarding recipes:   If you are on Facebook, join some groups.  There are many, just search for Soap Making (or soapmaking) and they'll pop up.  When you find a group to join (I am not making recommendations here, as we all are searching for different things) once you've been accepted, go to the Files section of the group.  You will find a gazillion recipes on Facebook.  Also Google 'Soap making recipes' or some variation thereof.  There are a gazillion recipes out there on the internet.  Do not ask experienced soapers to give you a recipe, you will remove a bloody stump.....they develop their own, and while you will find some generous ones who don't mind sharing, you will find more who aren't so kind.  Just do yourself a favor and do your own research.  It's not that hard to find good info/recipes on your own.

Check out this link, Getting Started in Soapmaking without spending a ton of money .  Great resource to get you going with a minimum of investment.

Calculating Recipe by hand:  Everyone should know how to calculate the lye needed for the oils that are going to be used, here is a great blog post that explains the process nicely!  http://artisansoaps.blogspot.co.nz/2010/05/calculating-sap-by-hand.html

Troubleshooting a bad batch:  This is a great link to use to try to figure out what went wrong http://www.millersoap.com/trouble.html#troublestart

Lining Molds: One thing you'll need to master if your going to use wooden soap molds is lining them - unless you want to spend lots of money on lovely silicone lined ones (and go for it if you can afford it!!).  Lining with freezer paper is sort of like learning how to drive a standard - you might not use it but it's really good to know.  There are three videos on YouTube I recommend.  I actually use a combination of the fingernail trace shown here  and the 'fold the corners' method shown here.  In this link you'll see just how fast this can be done - no words, just action!  Learn it, you'll use it someday!  I've grown to like using wood molds better than silicone, so I line all the time. 

Understanding superfat (and/or lye discount):  This is something you'll see referred to either way.  Liz Ardlady has done a wonderful job explaining the ins and outs of superfats on her blog post, so rather than trying to reinvent the wheel just go read this - http://lizardladysoapinfo.blogspot.com/2014/08/understanding-superfat.html?m=1 

Equipment (be sure to click on that link just above regarding getting started without spending a ton of money!):

Below is a list borrowed from the Tallow Soapers Facebook group about equipment to gather up for your first time soaping.  I went to Ocean State Job Lot, a local discount house, and picked up a lot of it, Dollar Tree or Family Dollar or any store like that is a great place to find all kinds of silicone spatulas, plastic bowls, measuring cups, spoons, etc.  Remember, once you use these things for soap you really should keep them just for soap.

NEWBIE SOAPER START UP TOOLS: These should be dedicated to soaping once used for soap.

Pot: A non-aluminum pot (aluminum may cause a nasty chemical reaction with Lye)

Spoon: Spoon should also be non-aluminum -- stainless, plastic (able to tolerate high temperatures without melting) or wooden (wooden spoons apt to splinter in lye solution).

Stick Blender: A "mixer" type tool that enables rapid mixing and saves hours of stirring by-hand, (can be found at most Wal-Mart /K-Mart or similar stores for $10.00 - $20.00)

Measuring Cup: For exact measuring of liquid ingredients

Scale: For exact measuring (weighing) of oils, lye, additives, etc.

Molds: Almost anything may be used (oatmeal boxes, plastic drawer bins, yogurt containers), that won't "leak" when new soap is poured into them

Gloves: To protect hands from possible lye contact

Goggles: To protect eyes from possible lye splashes

Lye Solution Container: A heat tolerable container (non-aluminum) for use with liquid and lye for mixing "lye solution" -- a large container, Rubbermaid type pitcher works well and makes for easy pouring (must be of a heavy enough gauge so as to NOT melt if temperatures rise to nearly 200F) These are available at the dollar store, cheap enough, toss when finished with them.

Here's a nice link listing equipment you need to get started also - read, read, read while you commence to begin  http://candleandsoap.about.com/od/soapmakingbasics/a/cpequip.htm

Regarding hot process:

Start here http://candleandsoap.about.com/od/SpecialtySoapRecipes/ss/Hot-Process-Crock-Pot-Soap-Recipe.htm

Here's a good tutorial http://www.auntroma.com/hot_process_soap_tutorial_.htm

Here is a great photo montage of the hot process process from start of cook to finish.  It does some funky stuff, don't worry, it is great soap in the end!! http://www.auntroma.com/hot_process_soap_tutorial_.htm

Roberta Zoricic, or ByrdiJean's, wonderful swirling tutorials and her whole channel on YouTube covers so much on hot process soaping.  If you want to learn advanced swirling and coloring techniques, be certain to check out both her Youtube Channel here http://www.youtube.com/user/ByrdiJean/videos or her blog here http://byrdijeans.blogspot.com/

The following comes under the 'moving on' category.  You will be drawn to lotion making, salves, liquid soaps, etc.  I'll be populating this section with links to other information on various products.

General information:  The Swiftcraftmonkey blog is chock full of information on all sorts of things, not just soap, but skin care products in general. http://swiftcraftymonkey.blogspot.com/

Liquid Soap Resources: just starting to collect info on it, here's a few links:

Miles Away Farm Blog: Liquid Soapmaking - Where to Start